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January 12, 2007

4:11 PM

More stories from Zambia- Part 2

Fishing With The Girls

 

Not too long ago I had a meeting scheduled with my local community but was informed on the day of that it would have to be postponed because all of the women were going fishing. I was asking a bunch of questions about how the women will catch fish, and it was finally suggested that I go with Ba Mercy (a Safwa teacher) and see it for myself.

 

So, just after lunch that day Ba Mercy showed up to take me fishing with her( it’s not technically “fishing”, but more like fish gathering). Ba Mercy was carrying her umuseke, which is a reed basket used specifically for catching fish, and it wasn’t long before I realized that we had fallen into a single-file line of women and children. (The women were carrying the baskets on their heads. The children carried old pots and dishes.) I didn’t try to count, but there must have been well over 100 people all headed toward the stream.

 

As usual, most people were barefoot, and we walked down a small bush path for about 2K or so before arriving at the stream… I kept tripping on sticks while walking, which made the kids behind me laugh. The scenery was picturesque. The stream is on the “outskirts” of the village, so there wasn’t a house anywhere in sight… It was like we were on a piece of land that was completely un-corrupted, in its natural state- exactly the way Go intended. I felt like I was intruding- or that I had stumbled onto a place where I didn’t belong… or maybe even back in time.

 

Everyone gathered next to the stream (which was actually a circular pond about 50 meters across), and I sat down or just stood around chatting. I finally asked why we were all just standing around, and Ba Mercy explained that we were waiting for the vice-headman to arrive and give the official okay for the fishing to begin. I never actually saw any man show up, but it wasn’t too much longer before the entire group collectively sat down and prayed together. Then the women and children carrying the fish poison in their baskets got into the water and began walking throughout the pond, dispersing the poison- These are native plants that are collected in the bush, dried, and pounded.

 

Within 10 or 20 minutes of the poison being placed in the water, the fish are affected, and they begin to rise to the surface. They aren’t quite dead, but it’s like they are stunned or paralyzed. Everyone will slowly walk around throughout the pond, scooping up fish into their baskets (like a swampy African Easter egg hunt J). Once they had 5 or 6 fish, they’d transfer them into the other pot or dish that they’d brought along- These dishes were scattered throughout the nearby grass, along with dozens of discarded chitenges. Most of the little children who were too big to be carried on mama’s back but too small to be helping catch fish were sitting in the grass, playing with the old pots.

 

In addition to the scooping up of fish into baskets, there were also about 10 boys with these spear-like things that they were using to kill fish. They were wooden poles about 6 or 7 feet long with 3 small metal prongs (about 4 inches long) secured to one end. The boys would wade around in the more shallow areas and jab at the fish with their spears. There was even one boy who was in an old dugout canoe, paddling around the center of the pond, trying to catch what he could with his fishing spear and by reaching over the side of his canoe with his bowl.

 

I sat in the grass watching this whole fishing escapade for about 2 hours before Ba Mercy decided that she’d caught enough and was ready to go. I looked in her umuseke- She had (at most) 2 dozen fish ranging from about 2 to 5 inches in length. I was surprised because I was expecting huge baskets-full of fish that would feed them for awhile. Instead, it looked like they were only catching enough to last for maybe 2 or 3 meals... I asked Ba Mercy how often the women would come out here and catch fish. She explained that it was only a once-a-year thing. She escorted me back to my house, gave me 6 small fish to feed my cat, then returned home.

 

Congratulations on actually making it to the end! I hope I didn't bore you too much with any of my stories... Take care, keep Africa in your prayers, and I wish all of you a Happy Thanksgiving, Merry Christmas, and a fun-filled new year!!!

 

Shalenipo,

Erin

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